Quilting Order Form

This is my quilting order form I use for quilting orders. I can email it to you so you can edit and print it to send with your quilt order. Please let me know if you want it emailed to you. You can contact me at hhquilting11@yahoo.com or you can call me at 253.495.4743


Harvey’s Heirloom Quilting

Machine Quilting Order Form

253.495.4743

http://hhquilting.blogspot.com

Name __________________________________________________________

Address_________________________________________________________

City_____________________________ State ______ Zip _______________

Phone: ______________________________________________________________

Email: _______________________________________________________________

Quilt Size in Inches: (Length times Width)

(L) _______ inches  X  (W) ________ = ________________ sq. inches

Description of Quilt:

Type of Quilting Desired: (check one) ** (see descriptions of quilting options)

Pantograph (minimum $45) $.02- $.025/sq. inch:

square inch _________ X $________= $__________

Pattern name: _________________________________________________

Custom Work: (more than 75% of quilt is “free hand”, min. $65) between $0.025/sq. inch- $0.05/sq. inch. __________

square inch _________ X $_______= $_______

Description of custom design, please include sketches on separate sheet if necessary.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Batting:

Warm and Natural 90”, Hobbs 80/20--$6 per yard

Length _____ X $6=                                                    $ _____________

Backing: Customer provided (should be 4 inches larger, on all sides, than the quilt top): ________

Piecing backing material: $20.00                     $ _____________

Thread Color(s): ____________________________________________

Specialty thread= $6, regular thread= $5 per quilt, color change is $1 per color per quilt.

# of thread colors ______ X $_____=        $ ______________

Quilt Construction Fee

(If Laura Harvey is constructing the quilt top for this order)

Quilts measuring 40” X 40” or smaller- $50.00 (small)

Quilts measuring 41” X41” to 60” X 60”- $75.00 (medium)

Quilts measuring 61” X 61” to 99” X 99”- $100.00 (large)

Quilts measuring 100” X 100” or larger- $150.00 (X large)

                                                                              $ ________________

 Rush Order 

(Less than 3 weeks to quilt, See size description above)

Small $20, Medium $30, Large $40, X large $50

                                                               $_______________

Shipping and Handling

I will do my best to use a flat rate box. However, queen and king size quilts do not fit in a flat rate box. The shipping will be based on weight per the post office.

Insurance: Offered by the U.S.P.S.

Yes _______  No ________

                                                                               $ _______________

Amount of insurance: (How much do you want me to insure your quilt or through the mail service?)

$_______________

Total Estimate:                                         $______________                                      

Scrappy Kaleidoscope Quilt

This is the process I completed to make a scrappy kaleidoscope quilt out of baby receiving blankets.I made this quilt a scrappy kaleidoscope because there were so many different designs and patterns in the blankets. I couldn't find just one main color or design to build upon so I decided to create an eye catching pattern with a secondary design. 

First, cut the blankets so there is no binding. I found that some of the blankets had two layers. 

*** I ironed fusible webbing to the back of each blanket to stabilize. I would highly recommend not skipping this step. It makes a huge difference when you sew the pieces together and when your quilt is quilted. 

So, make sure to stabilize the fabric. ***

To cut the thousands of pieces, I used my Alto's board. It saved me a lot of time. If you don't have this board, it's ok. You just need a kaleidoscope ruler. I bought mine at the local crafting store. 

Here are some of the pieces I cut. I used the 45 degree angle on my cutting guide to help cut. 

Here are some of the pieces...

Here are more of the pieces...

Once everything was cut, I matched the pieces I wanted to sew together. Lay the pieces "face to face" and pin the sides you are going to sew. I found that pinning helped with these fabrics since some were thicker than others. 

Once sewn together, iron open.

Iron the back open too. You will need to do this because you will have many fabrics joining at one point. Ironing your seams open will help create a flatter quilt. 

Here are four pieces I will sew together to make one kaleidoscope block. 

Sew to pieces together. Iron open both the front and back.

After sewing the four (4) pieces together, you will end up with two halves. Lay them "face to face" and pin them together. Make sure to pin the middle of each half together so when you open the kaleidoscope you will have a mirror. 

Here are a few examples of the blocks when they are sewn together. These blocks are now ready for the corners. 

I stacked my blocks while they waited for corners. The stack was extremely large when it was finished. 

I first cut 3.5 inch strips. Then I cut 3.5 inch squares. Last, I turned my cutting guide and cut a 45 degree angle creating triangles. 

Here's what the triangles look like after I cut them. 

Sew a triangle onto which fabric you want to make your corner. I tried to choose contrasting colors. 

Open the corners and make sure they line up and are not too short. If the corners are too short you can: cut larger triangles or when you square off the blocks you will cut them down to a smaller size. I would just make new triangles if mine were too short so I don't lose the size of the block. 

Iron the triangles open to make your corner. They will not line up exactly, so you will need to square the blocks off later. 

I made half of the squares with white corners and half with blue corners to help make the secondary design in the quilt. You can either choose to make the corners all one color, however; it might not make the secondary design I was creating. 

After sewing and ironing the corners, square the blocks so all blocks are the same size. I found I had to make my blocks a quarter inch smaller than expected after I added the corners due to a mistake I made on a few blocks. It all worked out in the end though. 

Lay the blocks out before sewing so you can make sure you don't have too much of one fabric in the same area. This helped give me a visual of the finished product (both color-wise and size wise).

Start sewing the blocks together in strips. I chose to sew my strips together widthwise to it would be easier for me to deal with later in the process. However, if you would like to sew your blocks together in longer strips, it will be just fine. 

**Make sure to iron the seam open after adding each block!**

Here are the strips sewn together without any borders. 

Here is a close up of the quilt top without being quilted. 

Once I was happy with my quilt top, I added borders to complement the top. I think borders help finish the quilt and make it look more complete. 

Then, I quilted the quilt top. I used a soft cuddle fabric on the back. 

Here is the finished product:

It measured to be a queen size quilt when it was finished. 

Here is the cuddle fabric I used on the back. I chose to quilt hearts, loops and stars all over the quilt to stick with the baby theme and complement the fabric on the front. 

How to close the binding of a quilt by machine

Iron the two ends of the binding so there is a "smidgen" of a space. If they are touching that is ok. You will need this iron seam later as a guide. Note: Leave at least 4 inches of extra binding on each end. Also, leave a space on your quilt where you haven't sewn binding at least 6-8 inches. You will need this space to work with on your quilt. 

Iron the two ends and make a seam. Lift the left side up.

Open the left side binding so it lays flat again. You will notice your seam you ironed. 

Open the left side binding so it creates a "tent." Lay it as flat as it will. Note: It will not lay perfectly flat due to the original iron seam you made while ironing your binding in half. 

Lift the right side binding and open it towards you. This will make a slight twist in the right side binding.

Now, the two binding pieces are laying "face" to "face." Notice the slight twist on the right side binding. 

At this point you will need to bunch or fold your quilt so you can pull your binding together. Then, turn the right side binding vertical and lay it over the left side. Line up your iron seams to make a cross. The original iron seam will line up with the shorter iron seam.

Pin the binding in place. I put a pin at the top right side and bottom left side so I don't run the risk of sewing over my pin. 

Sew a diagonal line from the top left corner to the bottom right corner. 

This is the finished line sewn from the top left corner to the bottom right corner. Remover the pins. Note: Do NOT cut any excess fabric yet! Wait until you open the binding back up to make sure you sewed it correctly. 

Here is the finished closed binding with the excess fabric still attached. If your binding looks like this and lays flat with your quilt, then you can cut the excess off. If your binding is too loose or too tight, take the seam out and redo the binding process. 

Now you are ready to iron the binding up and turn it to the other side to finish sewing onto the quilt. 

Family Name Wallhanging

Here is a cute wallhanging I made for a deserving family. Yes, you guess it... They are Cardinal fans. :)

Quilt Cut Cutting Board

As you may have noticed, I'm in love with my cutting board. Since I've been posting pictures using it, I've been getting a lot of questions about it. Unfortunately, I don't sell them or get any money from writing this part of my blog. But, I do want to share how cool my cutting board really is and how it is worth the money. 

Here is an overview of the cutting board.  There are a few things on this board that a flat Omnigrid mat does not provide. First, there is a clamp bar that holds the fabric firm and in place while cutting. Second, The speed gauge and cutting guide provide a quick way to cut and measure your fabric. The guide also turns to many different degrees and attaches to two sides of the board. Third, the board is held to the table by rubber stoppers on the bottom. I was worried about the board moving but it stays in place. 

As I mentioned above, the cutting guide and speed gauge rotate to many different degrees. Here is a good example right from Altos website:

The speed gauge is my best friend! I can move the gauge to the exact measurement I want to cut. If I want to cut 2 1/2 inch strips, I move the gauge to the 2 1/2 inch mark and start cutting. Then I slide the cutting guide over so the speed gauge lines up with the cut I just made and cut again. I repeat this process over and over until I have the desired amount of pieces. 

I also purchased the carrying case for my board. I actually kept the original box and used it as storage when the board was not in use. However, the box only last a little bit and I travel and teach classes often so I invested the money for the case. 

The case is padded, has zippers on the sides, pockets for carrying my rotary cutters, rulers and more. 

I strongly suggest checking the board out! This will show you the online demo: 

Online Demo

I plan on purchasing another board from Alto's however it will be the Quilt Cut Pro version. 

Pro Version

The pro version has all the cool features of the Quilt Cut 2 however this pro version is bigger and has a bolt roller. The bolt roller is additional but I think it's worth the money if you're cutting a large amount of fabric at once. 

Here is the main page of Alto's. Please leave me comments on what you think about the board. Or, you can always ask me questions about the board. Thanks!

Quilt Cut

Pinwheel Peace

 Here is a quilt I made out of pinwheels and squares. I first started by making the pattern on a grid of 

15 X 15 squares with each square being 4 inches. Then I color coded everything, number everything and started cutting. 

When I have a lot to cut, I use this cutting board. It allows me to cut 4 layers of fabric at once. Plus, it allows me to cut in all different directions. I LOVE this board!

I first cut 3 inch squares. Then I turned my straightedge to a 60 degree angle and cut my triangles. 

These are the triangles I made out of the squares. 

Here's my stack of triangles. Now, I am ready to sew.

I sewed together a colored triangle and a white triangle. Then ironed them open. Last, I ironed the seam open on the back. This is an important step because the seams meet up and produce a lot of fabric in one area. When your quilt is quilted, these areas can prevent quilting. So, iron the seams open in order for your quilt top to lay flatter and be able to be quilted. 

All seams are ironed open.

Front.

After I sewed all my pinwheels together and ironed all seams open, I started sewing the quilt top together. This is the main row of the quilt, so I started with that and built upon it. 

Here's a pic of the progress...

The peace sign is complete. Now, I just need to add borders. 

The top is now ready to be quilted. 

**If you are interested in seeing the grid (pattern) I designed to make this quilt, just let me know and I'll send it to you. :)